At a glance. The Luberon is a mountain range in central Provence and the natural park surrounding it. This is postcard Provence: hilltop villages, olives, vineyards, lavender and the scent of thyme. Highlights include Gordes, a stone village on a rock, Roussillon, among red-orange ochre cliffs, Ménerbes and Bonnieux, part of the Luberon's “golden triangle”, Sénanque Abbey with its lavender field, and Apt market. Allow one to two days for the highlights. A car is the most convenient option; base yourself in Gordes, Apt or L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.
Where is the Luberon?
The Luberon is a mountain range in central Provence, reaching 1,256 m and covering around 600 km². Three ridges run west to east: Petit, Grand and eastern Luberon. The Calavon Valley borders it to the north, the Durance Valley to the south. Most belongs to the Luberon Regional Natural Park, with around 1,500 plant species and 135 bird species. It is around 45 minutes from Avignon and an hour from Aix-en-Provence.
Luberon villages
| Village | What it is known for |
|---|---|
| Gordes | Stone village on a rock, one of France's best-known views |
| Roussillon | Houses and cliffs in every shade of ochre, the Ochre Trail |
| Ménerbes | Ridge-top village made famous by Peter Mayle's “A Year in Provence” |
| Bonnieux | Hillside village overlooking the valley, an old church at the top |
| Lacoste | Ruins of the Marquis de Sade's castle |
| Lourmarin | A village with a Renaissance château on the southern slope and cafés on the square |
| Apt | A small town with a large market and candied fruit |
Gordes
Gordes rises in tiers up a rock, with stone houses, narrow lanes and a château at the top. The best view is from the approach road, especially in the morning and at sunset. Nearby is the Village des Bories, old dry-stone huts built without mortar by shepherds and farmers.
Sénanque Abbey
In a valley near Gordes stands the 12th-century Cistercian Sénanque Abbey. Monks still live here and grow lavender. During flowering, from late June through July, the grey stone abbey stands amid a purple field, one of Provence's most famous images. Read more in “Provence Lavender Fields”.
Roussillon and the Ochre Trail
Roussillon stands on ochre hills, the natural pigment quarried here for paint for centuries. Houses range from yellow to dark red. The Ochre Trail, Sentier des Ocres, runs through former quarries among vivid cliffs, taking around an hour to walk. Wear shoes you do not mind staining: ochre colours everything.
Ménerbes, Bonnieux and Lacoste
Three villages on neighbouring hills. English writer Peter Mayle made Ménerbes famous with “A Year in Provence”, describing life here. Bonnieux overlooks the whole valley towards Gordes and Roussillon. The Marquis de Sade's ruined castle stands above Lacoste.
Luberon markets
Markets are a main Provençal pleasure, selling olives, tapenade, cheeses, honey, lavender soap and herbs, plus truffles and melons in season.
- Apt: a large Saturday market, one of Provence's best, with seasonal truffles, nougat, preserves and herbs.
- Lourmarin, Gordes, Bonnieux and other villages each have a weekly market day.
- L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, at the foot of the range: a Sunday antiques and food market.
Check market days before travelling; each village has its own.
Luberon wines
The slopes carry Luberon appellation vineyards: mainly rosés and Grenache-Syrah reds, plus fresh whites. There are many small organic estates. Luberon wines are fresher than those of the Rhône Valley because of altitude and cool nights. They pair well with Provençal food: tapenade, ratatouille and Banon goat's cheese.
One- and two-day itineraries
One day: morning in Gordes → Sénanque Abbey → lunch in Roussillon and the Ochre Trail → evening in Bonnieux or Ménerbes.
Two days: the first as above; the second adds Apt market on Saturday, Lourmarin and its château, a Luberon winery tasting and an evening in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.
When to visit
| Time | What to expect |
|---|---|
| May–June | Poppies and herbs in bloom, warm weather, fewer visitors |
| Late June–July | Lavender at Sénanque and on the plateaux, peak visitor numbers |
| August | Heat, crowds and lavender already harvested |
| September–October | Grape harvest, mild weather, markets |
| Winter | Quiet, truffles at markets, but some restaurants closed |
Getting there
- From Avignon: around 45 minutes by car; Paris–Avignon TGV takes around 2½ hours.
- From Aix-en-Provence: around an hour.
- Around the Luberon: a car or driver is necessary, as village buses are infrequent.
- In summer, Gordes and Roussillon car parks fill by 10:00.
What to taste
- Tapenade: a paste of olives, capers and anchovies;
- Banon cheese: goat's cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves;
- candied fruit from Apt;
- nougat and Aix calissons;
- truffles at winter markets;
- Luberon rosé with lunch on a terrace.
Where to stay in the Luberon
- Gordes: central and scenic, but expensive and busy in summer.
- Bonnieux, Ménerbes, Lourmarin: quieter, with restaurants on village squares.
- Apt: a town with a market and shops, convenient and affordable.
- L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: by the river at the foot of the range, with antiques shops and easy access to Avignon.
- Country houses, mas, among lavender and vineyards: classic Provençal holidays.
The Luberon with Aix-en-Provence and Avignon
Two Provençal cities combine easily with the Luberon:
- Avignon, forty-five minutes away: the Palais des Papes and Saint-Bénézet Bridge. Read more in “Avignon and Châteauneuf-du-Pape”.
- Aix-en-Provence, around an hour: Cours Mirabeau, fountains, calissons and the market.
Provençal cooking in the Luberon
- Ratatouille: vegetables stewed with olive oil and herbs;
- aïoli: garlic sauce for fish and vegetables;
- tapenade and anchoïade: olive and anchovy pastes;
- herb-roasted lamb, with Rhône reds;
- Cavaillon melons in summer;
- Apt candied fruit and nougat.
Rosé is the best match for Provençal food, handling garlic, tomatoes and herbs well.
The Luberon with children
Children enjoy Roussillon's Ochre Trail, with cartoon-like coloured cliffs, the Village des Bories and its stone huts, swimming in the river at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and the markets. In hot weather, plan walks for the morning.
Cycling in the Luberon
Cycle routes follow quiet roads between villages and vineyards. Many guesthouses hire bicycles, including electric bikes, making the hills easier.
Lavender in the Luberon: where and when
Lavender is Provence's calling card, and the Luberon is one of the best places to see it.
- Sénanque Abbey: the most famous image, a stone abbey in a valley amid rows of lavender.
- The Vaucluse plateau above Gordes and Valensole plateau a little farther east: endless fields.
- Timing: late June to mid-July. Harvesting starts in late July and August.
- Best light: early morning or sunset.
Do not enter the rows or pick flowers: these fields are farmers' work. Read more in “Provence Lavender Fields”.
L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and Fontaine-de-Vaucluse
At the foot of the Luberon, L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is surrounded by Sorgue river canals and waterwheels. A large antiques and food market takes place on Sundays. Ten minutes away is Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, where the Sorgue emerges from a huge cave beneath a cliff, one of France's most powerful springs. In spring, when water is high, the sight is especially impressive.
Aix-en-Provence: city of fountains
An hour from the Luberon, Aix-en-Provence is an elegant city with Cours Mirabeau shaded by plane trees, dozens of fountains, markets and cafés. Paul Cézanne lived and worked here and repeatedly painted Montagne Sainte-Victoire. Try calissons, boat-shaped almond sweets and a symbol of Aix.
Two days in the Luberon: a detailed plan
| Morning | Afternoon | Evening | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Gordes, Village des Bories | Sénanque during lavender season, lunch in Gordes | Roussillon, Ochre Trail at sunset |
| Day 2 | Apt market on Saturday or L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue on Sunday | Lourmarin, Luberon winery tasting | Bonnieux or Ménerbes, dinner on the square |
Common mistakes
- Arriving in Gordes and Roussillon at midday in summer. Full car parks and crowds.
- Coming for lavender in August. It has already been cut; late June to mid-July is best.
- Trying to see all Provence in a day. The Luberon deserves its own day.
- Wearing light-coloured shoes on the Ochre Trail. Ochre leaves stains.
- Not checking market days.
Frequently asked questions
Where is the Luberon?
In central Provence, between Avignon and Aix-en-Provence, in the Vaucluse and Alpes-de-Haute-Provence departments.
Which Luberon villages should you visit?
Gordes, Roussillon, Ménerbes, Bonnieux, Lourmarin and Lacoste.
When does lavender flower at Sénanque?
From late June to mid-July.
What is Roussillon famous for?
Ochre cliffs and houses in every shade from yellow to red, and the Ochre Trail.
Do you need a car in the Luberon?
Yes, or a driver. Buses between villages are infrequent.
Where should you stay?
In Gordes, Apt, L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue or rural guesthouses among vineyards.
Which wine should you drink in the Luberon?
Luberon appellation rosés and reds from Grenache and Syrah, and fresh whites.
What is “A Year in Provence”?
Peter Mayle's book about life in Ménerbes, which made the Luberon famous.
Where can you see lavender in the Luberon?
At Sénanque Abbey near Gordes and on the surrounding plateaux, ideally from late June to mid-July.
How many days do you need?
One for Gordes, Sénanque and Roussillon; two to add Apt market, Lourmarin and a tasting.
The Luberon on a Provence tour
Morning in Gordes, Sénanque Abbey in lavender season, colourful Roussillon, Apt market with truffles and nougat, and a visit to an organic Luberon producer. → Provence food and wine tour · Provence region · Provence lavender fields