The Dolomites: what to see and when to go

The Dolomites form part of the Southern Limestone Alps. They stretch from the Adige river in the west to the Piave valley in the east. Their name comes from the mineral dolomite, itself named after the 18th-century French geologist Déodat de Dolomieu. Before that, local people called them the “Pale Mountains”.

Cultures meet here: German in Alto Adige, South Tyrol, Italian in Trentino, and Ladin, older than Italian, in several valleys.

Tre Cime

Three vertical peaks symbolise the Dolomites. The circuit from Rifugio Auronzo, 2,333 m, takes two to three hours with little elevation change and postcard views.

Alpe di Siusi

Europe’s largest high Alpine plateau has 56 km² of meadows at around 2,000 m. Take the cable car from Ortisei. In summer, cows and horses graze beside wooden huts, with views of Sassolungo and Schlern, also called Sciliar.

Lake Braies

The most photographed lake, with turquoise water, wooden boats and Croda del Becco reflections. Come early before daytime crowds.

Val Gardena and Ortisei

Val Gardena is one of the Ladin valleys. Ortisei is the woodcarving capital, with workshops making altars and sculptures. Above the valley stands San Giacomo, the oldest wooden church here, with views of the Sassolungo and Sella massifs.

Cortina

Elegant town with Corso Italia boutiques and cafés. With Milan it hosted the 2026 Winter Olympics. The route over Falzarego Pass, 2,105 m, is among the Alps’ finest.

For three days, combine Bolzano, Gardena with Siusi, Tre Cime with Braies. For five, add Cortina and Fassa.

One of the world’s largest ski regions, Dolomiti Superski, offers one pass for hundreds of kilometres of pistes and over two hundred lifts.

Sellaronda circles Sella for about 44 km, roughly 23 on skis and the rest by lift. It crosses Gardena, Sella, Pordoi and Campolongo passes and four Ladin valleys. Complete it in a day in either direction.

Winter also brings Bolzano and other towns’ Christmas markets, refuge dinners and warm strudel.

A century ago, the front between Italy and Austria-Hungary crossed these mountains. Soldiers dug tunnels and positions, adding cables and ladders to paths. These became via ferrata routes. Lagazuoi and Monte Piana have open-air museums with restored trenches and tunnels.

Alto Adige, South Tyrol, belonged to Austria until 1919. Most still speak German, signs are bilingual and canederli and speck share menus with pasta and espresso. Bolzano, Bozen, has a Gothic cathedral, Portici arcades and Piazza delle Erbe market. It also holds Ötzi, the glacier mummy over 5,000 years old.

• Speck dell’Alto Adige IGP, vacuum-packed for travel;

• Alpine dairy cheeses;
• Schüttelbrot, long-keeping crisp Tyrolean bread;
• Lagrein, Gewurztraminer, Teroldego and Trento DOC;
• Val di Non apples and juice;
• Val Gardena woodcarving.

They live in five valleys around Sella: Gardena, Badia, Fassa, Livinallongo and Ampezzo. Their Rhaeto-Romance language, older than Italian, survived centuries in the mountains. Signs use Ladin, Italian and German: Ortisei is also Urtijëi and Sankt Ulrich. Food includes casunziei and buckwheat-and-corn porridge.

• Rapid weather changes: cold and wind even in July; warm layer and waterproof.

• Strong sun: sunglasses and sunscreen.
• Good soles: rocky trails.
• Seasonal lifts: usually June–September or October in summer, December–March in winter; check schedules.
• Via ferrata: guide and equipment if inexperienced.

A rifugio, often over 2,000 m, is more than a climber’s bed. Many cook excellent food and make cheese and speck. Terrace lunch overlooking peaks is a major pleasure.

• Speck dell’Alto Adige IGP, cured ham with mountain herbs.

• Canederli, Knödel, bread dumplings with speck, spinach or cheese.
• Casunziei, Ladin beetroot-and-poppyseed ravioli.
• Malga cheeses, from summer mountain farms.
• Strudel with Trentino apples.

One of Italy’s underestimated wine regions:

• Alto Adige: powerful dark-berry Lagrein, light Vernatsch, Schiava; white Gewurztraminer, Pinot Bianco and Müller-Thurgau.

• Trentino: Teroldego Rotaliano, the “prince of Trentino”, rare Nosiola, traditional-method Trento DOC and sweet Vino Santo.

Gewurztraminer is thought to take its name from Tramin, Termeno. Tasting it here is almost a pilgrimage.

• Air: Verona or Innsbruck, also Venice and Bolzano.

• Verona–Bolzano: around two hours by car.
• Locally: car easiest between passes, lakes and valleys; public transport exists but is slow.
• Bases: Bolzano for wine and town, Gardena or Fassa for mountains, Cortina for east and Tre Cime.

For every ability:

• Tre Cime circuit, Auronzo start, two to three hours, around 200 m height change.

• Siusi plateau, flat meadow paths for children and reluctant climbers, for example Malga Gostner dairy.
• Lake Braies circuit, around an hour on a level shore path.
• Resciesa above Ortisei, meadows overlooking Sassolungo and Sella.

Most routes begin at upper cable-car stations, so no need to climb all the way.

1. Mountain walking in May. Snow, many refuges and lifts closed until June.
2. Braies at summer noon. Full car parks and crowds; come early.
3. Underestimating the weather. It may be 25 °C in the valley but cold and windy at 2,500 m. Bring a warm layer.
4. Planning by map distance. Passes and hairpins: 40 km may take over an hour.
5. Not booking refuges or restaurants. Popular places fill.
6. Only mountains. Include at least one wine tasting.

Bolzano wines, Gardena’s Ladin cooking, Siusi cheesemaking, Cortina and Tre Cime, Fassa speck workshop, Trento strudel and farewell Braies. English-speaking guide. → Dolomites food tour · Dolomites region