Nice: a complete guide to the jewel of the French Riviera

Travel16 min readIntermediate

Nice: a complete guide to the jewel of the French Riviera

Everything you need to know about Nice: from the Promenade des Anglais to the Old Town, from the best beaches to culinary discoveries

TL;DR

TL;DR: the essentials

  • 01
    ✓Best time: May–June and September–October
  • 02
    ✓At least 3–4 days to discover the city
  • 03
    ✓Do not miss: Promenade des Anglais, the Old Town and the Matisse and Chagall museums
  • 04
    ✓Try: salade niçoise, socca and pissaladière
  • 05
    ✓Budget: from €80–120 per person per day
  • 06
    ✓Transport: trams and buses; no car needed in the centre

Welcome to Nice

Nice is the capital of the French Riviera and one of the Mediterranean’s most beautiful cities. Italian heritage meets French elegance here, with the azure sea set against the majestic Alps.

Over more than 150 years, Nice has grown from a small fishing settlement into an international resort while retaining its distinctive character. The Old Town's narrow streets, the majestic Promenade des Anglais, world-class museums and unique cuisine make Nice an ideal destination at any time of year.

In this guide, I have gathered everything needed for an ideal trip: when to go, where to stay, what to see, where to eat and how to avoid common tourist mistakes.

5 reasons to visit Nice

Why Nice belongs on your travel list

1

An ideal climate

Three hundred sunny days a year, mild winters and warm summers make Nice a year-round destination.

2

A cultural capital

The Matisse and Chagall museums, MAMAC, opera and festivals — art is part of life in Nice.

3

A food lover's paradise

Distinctive Niçois cuisine, fresh seafood, Provençal wines and Italian influences.

4

An ideal location

A base for exploring the Riviera: Cannes, Monaco and Antibes are all a 30-minute drive away.

5

Architectural diversity

From the Old Town's Baroque churches to Belle Époque buildings on the seafront and contemporary architecture.

Nice neighbourhoods: where to stay and explore

Each neighbourhood in Nice has its own character and atmosphere

Nice neighbourhoods
Nice neighbourhoods

Vieux Nice, Old Town

The heart of historic Nice, with narrow streets, Baroque churches and the famous Cours Saleya market.

  • ✓Cours Saleya — flower and food market
  • ✓Sainte-Réparate Cathedral
  • ✓The seventeenth-century Palais Lascaris
  • ✓Authentic Niçois restaurants

Mediterranean charm, Italian influence and a lively atmosphere

Promenade des Anglais

The famous seven-kilometre seafront promenade along the Mediterranean is the symbol of Nice.

  • ✓Hotel Negresco: an architectural gem
  • ✓Beaches and private beach clubs
  • ✓Cycle lanes and a roller-skating area
  • ✓Sunsets over the Baie des Anges

Belle Époque elegance, sea breezes and a cosmopolitan atmosphere

Cimiez

An aristocratic hilltop neighbourhood with museums, Roman ruins and luxurious villas.

  • ✓Matisse Museum in a seventeenth-century villa
  • ✓Marc Chagall Museum
  • ✓Roman amphitheatre and archaeological museum
  • ✓Franciscan monastery and gardens

Peace, culture and panoramic city views

Port de Nice

A picturesque harbour with yachts, fishing boats and excellent seafood restaurants.

  • ✓The freshest seafood in harbourside restaurants
  • ✓Walks along the quays
  • ✓Antiques market on Mondays
  • ✓A starting point for boat trips

Maritime romance, authenticity and a working port

Libération

A modern shopping district centred on Place Masséna, the heart of city life.

  • ✓Place Massena, with fountains and sculptures
  • ✓Avenue Jean Médecin shopping street
  • ✓Tram line
  • ✓Modern shops and restaurants

Energy, shopping and modern Nice

Colline du Château

Castle Hill, a park on the site of a medieval fortress with Nice’s finest views.

  • ✓Panoramic views of the Baie des Anges
  • ✓Waterfall and shaded paths
  • ✓Archaeological excavations
  • ✓Playgrounds and picnic areas

Nature in the city centre, romance and photogenic views

Main attractions

Places not to miss in Nice

Waterfront promenade

Promenade des Anglais

The legendary seven-kilometre Mediterranean seafront promenade is the symbol of Nice and a must-see for every visitor.

Open around the clockFree
  • ✓A walk from the airport to the harbour
  • ✓Blue chairs (chaises bleues) to relax in
  • ✓Cycle paths
  • ✓Sunsets over the Baie des Anges

Early morning or sunset is best for a walk. Hire a bicycle or rollerblades.

Historic district

Vieux Nice, Old Town

A maze of narrow streets with Baroque churches, colourful façades and authentic restaurants: the heart of historic Nice.

Open around the clockFree
  • ✓Cours Saleya — flower market (Tue–Sun)
  • ✓Sainte-Réparate Cathedral
  • ✓Palais Lascaris
  • ✓Place Rossetti and Fenocchio ice cream

Visit Cours Saleya market on Tuesday–Sunday mornings. On Mondays, it becomes an antique market.

Park and viewpoint

Colline du Château

Castle Hill: a park on the site of a medieval fortress, with the finest panoramic views of Nice, the Baie des Anges and the port.

08:30–18:00 (winter), until 20:00 (summer)Free
  • ✓360° panoramic views
  • ✓Artificial waterfall
  • ✓Archaeological excavations
  • ✓Shaded paths and picnic areas

Take the free lift or climb the steps. Bring water and a camera: the views are wonderful!

Square

Place Massena

Nice’s central square, with red-and-white buildings, fountains and contemporary sculptures — the heart of city life.

Open around the clockFree
  • ✓Piedmontese Baroque architecture
  • ✓Fountain of the Sun
  • ✓Jaume Plensa's "Conversation in Nice" sculptures
  • ✓Christmas market in winter

The square is beautifully illuminated in the evening. The pedestrian section of Avenue Jean Médecin starts here.

Port

Port de Nice

A picturesque harbour with yachts, fishing boats and excellent seafood restaurants: an authentic side of Nice.

Open around the clockFree
  • ✓Walk along the quays
  • ✓Seafood restaurants
  • ✓Antiques market (Monday)
  • ✓A starting point for boat trips

Lunch at harbour restaurants: the freshest seafood at reasonable prices. Book ahead.

Cathedral

Cathédrale Saint-Nicolas

The Russian Orthodox cathedral — the largest outside Russia, built in the early 20th century for Nice’s Russian community.

9:00-12:00, 14:00-18:00Free
  • ✓Architecture inspired by Moscow's 17th-century churches
  • ✓Six onion domes
  • ✓Richly decorated interior
  • ✓Iconostasis and frescoes

Admission costs €5. Follow the dress code. Photography inside is forbidden.

The food of Nice

Niçois cuisine is a distinctive blend of French and Italian traditions

The food of Nice
The food of Nice

What to try

Socca

A thin chickpea-flour flatbread baked in a wood-fired oven, Nice’s best-known dish.

€3-5

Where to try it: Chez Pipo, Chez Thérésa and street stalls on Cours Saleya

Eat it hot, sprinkled with black pepper. Perfect with a glass of rosé.

Salade Niçoise

The famous salad with tuna, anchovies, eggs, tomatoes, olives and green beans. No lettuce!

€12-18

Where to try it: La Merenda, Le Safari, Acchiardo

A true salade niçoise contains no cooked vegetables, only fresh ingredients.

Pissaladière

Nice’s ‘pizza’: thin dough topped with caramelised onions, anchovies and olives.

€4-8

Where to try it: Lou Pilha Leva, Chez René Socca

Excellent for a quick snack. Sold by weight.

Pan Bagnat

A round bread roll soaked in olive oil and filled with the ingredients of a salade niçoise: the perfect picnic.

€6-10

Where to try it: Chez Tintin, street kiosks

Order ahead — it takes at least an hour to prepare. Best eaten 2–3 hours after it is made.

Petits Farcis Niçois

Vegetables, tomatoes, courgettes, peppers and aubergines, stuffed with meat, rice and herbs.

€14-20

Where to try it: Acchiardo, La Merenda, Chez Palmyre

A traditional family dish. Best enjoyed in small, family-run restaurants.

Tourte de Blettes

A sweet tart with chard, raisins, pine nuts and apples: an unusual combination!

€4–6 per slice

Where to try it: Maison Auer, Espuno

Do not be put off by greens in a dessert — it really is delicious! Served warm or cold.

Where to eat

Traditional Niçois cuisine

La Merenda

A tiny restaurant with no telephone or sign. Legendary chef Dominique Le Stanc cooks authentic dishes.

€€

Be sure to try: Petits farcis, daube niçoise, tourte de blettes

Reservations: Arrive at opening, noon or 7:00 pm: reservations are impossible

Family restaurant

Acchiardo

Open since 1927. A homely atmosphere, generous portions and affordable prices.

€€

Be sure to try: Stockfish, raviolis niçois and daube

Reservations: Book ahead or arrive at opening

Speciality: socca

Chez Pipo

Nice's best socca since 1923. A simple place with an authentic atmosphere.

€

Be sure to try: Socca, tourte de blettes, pissaladière

Reservations: No reservation is needed, but expect a queue

Fine dining (2 Michelin stars)

Le Chantecler

Restaurant at the Negresco hotel. Refined cuisine with Provençal touches.

€€€€

Be sure to try: The chef’s tasting menu

Reservations: Booking several weeks ahead is essential

Nice beaches

Pebble beaches with crystal-clear water and Alpine views

Nice beaches
Nice beaches

Public beaches

Free pebble beaches along the entire Promenade des Anglais.

  • ✓Free access
  • ✓Showers and toilets
  • ✓Lifeguards in summer
  • ✓Open all year
  • − Pebbles (beach shoes needed)
  • − Crowded in high season
  • − No sunbeds or parasols
  • − You need to bring your own

Arrive early (before 10:00) or after 16:00 to find a good spot. Bring a beach mat.

Private beaches (Plages Privées)

Paid beach clubs with full service along the waterfront.

  • ✓Comfortable sun loungers and cushions
  • ✓Restaurant and bar
  • ✓Showers and changing rooms
  • ✓A relaxed atmosphere
  • − Paid admission (€20–40/day)
  • − Expensive food and drinks
  • − Booking in high season
  • − Dress code at some venues

Popular choices: Hi Beach, Castel Plage and Beau Rivage. Book ahead in July–August.

Plage de l’Opéra

A public beach near the Old Town, popular with locals.

  • ✓Close to the Old Town
  • ✓Less touristy
  • ✓Good views of Colline du Château
  • ✓Free
  • − Pebbles
  • − Less space
  • − No particular facilities
  • − Can get crowded

Ideal for a quick swim after exploring the Old Town.

Carras Beach (Plage de Carras)

A quiet beach in the eastern part of the city, with fewer tourists.

  • ✓Fewer tourists
  • ✓A relaxed atmosphere
  • ✓Good for families
  • ✓Free
  • − Further from the centre
  • − Fewer facilities
  • − Pebbles
  • − Transport needed

Take bus 30 or 81. Ideal for those seeking peace and quiet.

Museums of Nice

One of France’s best museum collections outside Paris

Musée Matisse

A museum dedicated to Henri Matisse, who spent the final 37 years of his life in Nice.

€10; free on the first Sunday of the monthCimiezWed–Mon 10:00–18:00; closed Tue
  • ✓Paintings from every period of his career
  • ✓Sculptures and bronzes
  • ✓Drawings and prints
  • ✓The artist’s personal possessions

Combine your visit with the Roman arena and Franciscan monastery in Cimiez.

Musée Marc Chagall

The largest collection of Marc Chagall’s work assembled during the artist’s lifetime.

€10; free on the first Sunday of the monthCimiezWed–Mon 10:00–18:00; closed Tue
  • ✓Seventeen paintings of the biblical cycle
  • ✓Stained glass and mosaics
  • ✓Sketches and lithographs
  • ✓Concert hall with stained-glass windows

Be sure to visit the concert hall: Chagall's stained glass is stunning in natural light.

MAMAC (Musée d'Art Moderne et d'Art Contemporain)

A contemporary art museum with works from the 1960s to the present.

€10; free on the first Sunday of the monthPlace Yves KleinTue–Sun 10:00–18:00; closed Mon
  • ✓Nouveau Réalisme (Yves Klein, Arman)
  • ✓Pop art, including Warhol and Lichtenstein
  • ✓The School of Nice
  • ✓Rooftop terrace with views

Do not miss the rooftop terrace — excellent views over the city and contemporary sculptures.

Musée des Beaux-Arts

The fine arts museum in a magnificent nineteenth-century villa, with a collection from the Middle Ages to the twentieth century.

€10; free on the first Sunday of the monthBaumettesTue–Sun 10:00–18:00; closed Mon
  • ✓French painting from the 17th to 19th centuries
  • ✓Impressionists
  • ✓Works by Dufy and Van Dongen
  • ✓Sculptures by Rodin and Carpeaux

The beautiful building and gardens are worth visiting even if you are not a great lover of classical art.

Musée Masséna

Nice’s history museum in a magnificent Belle Époque villa on the Promenade des Anglais.

€10; free on the first Sunday of the monthPromenade des AnglaisWed–Mon 10:00–18:00; closed Tue
  • ✓The history of Nice and the French Riviera
  • ✓Furniture and decorative arts
  • ✓Costumes and textiles
  • ✓Italian-style gardens

Ideal for understanding the city’s history. The gardens are free to visit.

Practical travel tips

Everything you need for a comfortable trip to Nice

Getting there

Nice Airport (NCE) is France's third-largest. Tram T2 connects the airport to the centre (€1.70, 30 minutes). Taxis cost €30–40; Uber is cheaper. Trains arrive from Paris (TGV, 5.5 hours) and other cities.

Public transport

Trams (3 lines), buses and electric buses. A ticket costs €1.70 (75 minutes), a day pass €7 and a weekly pass €20. Use the Lignes d’Azur app to plan routes. Tram T1 runs across the city.

When to go

May–June and September–October are best: warm, with fewer tourists and affordable prices. July–August is peak season, hot, expensive and crowded. Winter is mild, but some venues close.

Where to stay

Promenade des Anglais for a beach holiday. Vieux Nice for atmosphere. Libération for shopping. Cimiez for tranquillity. Book ahead in high season.

Budget

Mid-range budget: €100–150/day (accommodation €70–100, food €30–50). Budget travel: €60–80/day. Luxury: €300+/day. Museums €10; private beaches €20–40. You will need cash in small establishments.

How much time you need

At least two to three days for the main sights. Four to five days is comfortable for museums and beaches. A week allows exploration nearby, including Monaco, Cannes, Antibes and Èze.

Frequently asked questions

Answers to common questions about visiting Nice

How many days do you need in Nice?

Two to three days cover the main sights. Four to five days is more comfortable, allowing museums, beaches and time to absorb the city’s atmosphere. If planning trips nearby, to Monaco, Cannes, Antibes and Èze, allow a week.

When is the best time to visit Nice?

The ideal periods are May–June and September–October: warm weather (20–25°C), fewer tourists and affordable accommodation. July–August is peak season, with heat (up to 30°C), crowds and high prices. Winter is mild (10–15°C), but some establishments close and the sea is cold for swimming.

Do you need a car in Nice?

You do not need a car in Nice itself: the centre is compact, trams and buses are available, and many places are within walking distance. Parking is expensive and difficult. A car is useful for trips around the French Riviera, including villages and vineyards, but trains and buses are also an option. An alternative is a private tour with a driver.

Is Nice safe for tourists?

Nice is generally safe, but be aware of a few things: pickpockets operate in markets, on public transport and in tourist areas. Do not leave belongings unattended on the beach. Avoid dark streets in the Old Town late at night. Keep copies of your documents separately. With basic precautions, you should have no problems.

Is English spoken in Nice?

English is understood in tourist venues, waterfront hotels and restaurants, and museums. Small establishments, markets and residential neighbourhoods mainly use French. Learn basic phrases such as Bonjour, Merci and S’il vous plaît: they matter to the French. Google Translate can help in difficult situations.

What daily budget do you need in Nice?

Budget option: €60–80/day (hostel €25–35, street food €15–20, transport €7, museums free on the first Sunday). Mid-range: €100–150/day (hotel €70–100, restaurants €30–50, museums €10). Comfortable: €200–300/day. Luxury: €500+/day. Small establishments may require cash.

Can you swim in Nice all year round?

Swimming is comfortable from May to September, with water at 20–26°C. April and October are cooler, 16–19°C, although some people swim. Winter water, December–March, is 13–15°C, for the hardy only. Beaches remain open all year for walking and sunbathing. Remember, they are pebbly, so bring suitable beach shoes!

What can I see near Nice in one day?

Monaco (30 minutes by train): casino, palace and aquarium. Cannes (40 minutes): the Croisette promenade and Old Town. Antibes (25 minutes): Picasso Museum, fort and yachts. Èze (30 minutes by bus): a medieval clifftop village. Saint-Paul-de-Vence (45 minutes): an artists' village. Menton (40 minutes): Italian atmosphere and lemon gardens.

Nice is waiting for you

Nice is more than a Riviera resort. It is a city with soul: every little street tells a story, art is everywhere, the Mediterranean sun shines 300 days a year and the local food wins you over at the first taste.

From the grand Promenade des Anglais to the Old Town’s labyrinth of lanes, from world-class museums to authentic family restaurants, and from pebble beaches to panoramic views from Colline du Château, Nice offers endlessly varied experiences.

I hope this guide helps you discover the real Nice — both its sights and the city its residents love. Bon voyage!

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Kirill Lazovsky

About the author

Kirill Lazovsky

Sommelier-guide and founder of Art Wine Guide. For over fifteen years I have helped people discover France through wine and food. I began as a sommelier in Paris, immersing myself in French terroir culture.

25+ years in France15+ years in tourism500+ guestsWSET 3 · École du vin de Bordeaux

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Nice: a complete guide to the jewel of the French Riviera
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